The Buzz About “The Quiet Eye” For Putting
What’s the difference between a good putter and a bad putter? Usually, we attribute the difference to mechanics. Good mechanics produces good putting. Bad mechanics produces bad putting. At least, that’s what I’ve always stressed and taught in my golf lessons and golf tips.
However, research shows that mechanics may not be the only difference between good putters and bad putters. According to Dr. Joan Vickers, University of Calgary, the difference may lie in how you use your eyes. The secret to good putting, she says, may be using your eyes to detect the right information about distance and direction; then using your mind to relay the information to the rest of your body, so you can consistently sink the putt. The Quiet Eye, as it is called, may someday help explain what being “in the Zone” means, she says.
So what exactly is the Quiet Eye? It’s when your gaze remains absolutely still on the ball just before and as the stroke is performed. There are two important aspects to this basic yet essential skill: location and duration. Which is better? Both are effective in improving accuracy, but evidence is beginning to favor the back of the ball. In putting as well as other hand-eye-target skills, the Quiet Eye is emerging as an indicator of optimal focus and concentration. And it’s something that can be taught in golf instruction sessions.
Good Putter versus Bad Putter
Having watched many players putt during golf lessons, I can see how the eyes play a part in good putting. The good putter focuses his gaze on a precise spot, his or her scans from the hole are more precise, and he or she fixates his or her gaze on a specific spot inside the cup. A good putter picks out a specific location at the hole, like a blade of grass on the lip. The target isn’t the hole and certainly not around it. Instead, the putter’s gaze focuses on a target only a few millimeters wide.
The poor putter does not fixate on a specific target, but instead directs his gaze to a number of locations in and around the hole. There’s no clear definition of his target or his line of gaze from the ball to the target. His gaze is all over the place. He has a shorter Quiet Eye duration because he is unable to keep his gaze quiet as he strokes the ball. The end result, of course, is missed putts.
Under stress, the Quiet Eye is often the first thing to go. It moves with the stroke, and golfers lose their ability to stabilize their gaze as they putt. When you choke, the billion cells in your brain lose their effective complexity in solving the slope, curvature distance and location problems. So even dozens of golf instruction sessions focused on mechanics may not always be able to save you when the pressure is on, but proper mechanics builds confidence and that helps.
Developing a Quiet Eye
Research shows that the average player can develop a Quiet Eye. A Quiet Eye routine on straight, flat putts has the following characteristics, which can be learned through golf lessons like any other skill.
• Focus on the hole
As soon as your putterhead is set behind the ball, pick a specific location on the hole where you want the ball to go, such as a blade of grass or a small feature on the front of the cup.
• “See” the ball go in
Look at this location for about two second, and visualize the ball going into the hole. Visualization is a keep technique in this procedure.
• Scan from the hole to the ball
Smoothly shift your gaze without interruption from the target to the back of the ball. Your gaze should move efficiently and calmly.
• Eye on the ball
Fixate on the back of the ball and imagine just the right contact of the putterhead on the ball. Picture a line through this contact point to your spot on the hole.
• Stay steady
Maintain a Quiet Eye on the one spot on the back of the ball during the backstroke and forwardstroke, and through contact. Don’t peek! Take a look at your ball going in the hole only after putting.
The idea of being in the Zone, or the “flow,” has been around for a long time. It’s when you absolutely can’t miss. But until now there has been little scientific evidence that the Zone exists, let alone can be measured. Perhaps the Quiet Eye will emerge as one of the objective measures of being in the Zone. Learning the Quite Eye technique can only help you lower your golf handicap.
Jack Moorehouse
http://www.articlesbase.com/business-articles/the-buzz-about-the-quiet-eye-for-putting-58386.html
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What might cause a front right door speaker to buzz, and how do I fix it?
I have a 99 Eclipse and I’ve put $250 Alpine Type R 6.5" in my doors. My passenger side door speaker buzzes specifically when the bass hits. I’ve thought of building my own mounts/boxes for the doors because the stock speaker mounts required some cutting to fit the speaker into the mount. I’ve also lined the area with foam padding, but it has done nothing to quiet the buzz (which sounds like plastic on plastic or plastic on metal vibration buzz).
HOWEVER, if I remove the interior door panneling, the buzzing stops. What can I do?
The speaker is bust***Only thing you can do is buy another one(( they dont cost that much
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Sounds like you blew the speaker. It is easy to do! Hope this helps!
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its probably a crossed wire. If you are good with wires than follow your wires back until you find some exposure. Make sure you undo your battery cable first.
If you are unfamiliar with the wires and things inside your cardoor, take it to a car stereo dealer and get an estimate.
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You have a vibration that is caused by an incorrect mount. You can try using a foam rubber stick on insulation (like is used on doors) to line the interior door panel before mounting it. that may help the vibration. Lowering the bass and not playing the radio excessively loud will also help.
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if you say you remove the paneling and the buzzing stops, maybe something is making contact w/ the speaker, or something is not being put back securely thus creating the buzzing.
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It sounds like a problem with the door trim. You mentioned using foam padding, but unless it is an acoustic material like Dynomat, you may not eliminate the vibration. I suggest you identify the exact location of the vibration (while parked) by pressing on the trim in different locations until the buzzing stops, then apply acoustic material between the trim and door in that location.
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1- You may have blown the speaker. (Most common reason) You may have turned it up too loud or it is crossed over too low. Does the speaker have a separate crossover? If it does, you may have the frequency for the woofer set too low and it blew. Most speakers -when bought new, have a warranty and you can take them back to where you bought it and have them send it in for a new one, usually just for the cost of shipping.
2- Another option is that you may not have enough airspace for the speaker to operate. You may have put too much foam padding in the door- and you are not giving the speaker the airspace that it needs. Look in the owners manual for how much airspace it needs, or go to Alpine’s web site.
3- Or you may have crossed the speaker wires (positive to negative) and are causing them to play out of phase.
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So its a rattle? If its a rattle then you need to get some dynamat. Dynamat is a very sticky pad that you put under the speaker mount that way the bass that causes vibration is filtered out because the dynamat stops the vibration from going any farther then the speaker. Sounds like you need just one sheet. I work at best buy and we sell it for 20$. If that’s not the problem then you made the mounts to big and the speaker surround is hitting the back of the door panel. In that case you will need to trim it down or trim some of the back of the door panel down if possible.
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MECP INSTALLER
It sounds as though 1 of 2 things is happening. Either the speaker is not mounted flush and the surround is actually ‘warped’ slightly, or you are merely getting residual rattling from the door panel itself. Sounds like it may be actually hitting the door panel as it operates. Make certain you have enough clearance between the speaker and the door panel to allow for proper operation of the speaker.
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your speaker is busted..
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If the buzzing stops when you remove the panel, then the speaker is fine. The speaker may be making contact with panel, or the panel may just be rattling. Hard to pinpoint. Try pushing on the panel a bit and see if that causes the buzzing to stop. If not, you may need to modify the speaker mounting….
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Buy some sound deadening material and line the inside of your door panel and door with it (where the panel meets the door). They also make a rubberized coating in a spray can that might work. I would use both of them. You should be able to find them both at an auto parts strore.
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I’ve been in the car business for 10 years
Your speaker cone moves in both directions. I might be wrong but it sounds like the speaker is hitting the door panel itself.
It would most likely solve your problem by recessing the speaker if at all possible. Color the inside of your panel with white chalk (or something to that effect), replace it, play some tunes and see where it’s hitting.
Educated guess..
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you might have to check that all the door clips are present and inserted in the door, there is probably one or two that were not installed so the door panel is rattling against the door. I have this problem on my door cause the panel is not fully against the door so it rattles and buzzes.
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THE SPEAKER IS PROBABLY BLOWN.
UNHOOK IT AND PLUG IN ANOTHER
SPEAKER, THAT SHOULD TELL YOU
QUICKLY…IT SOUNDS LIKE THE SPKR
IS RATTLING AGAINST THE DOOR INTERIOR….
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